Marsh M. | Licensed Appliance Technician | 16 years experience | Perth & Melbourne
The short answer: If water appears under or inside your washing machine when it hasn’t been running, the cause is almost always one of three things. A fill hose or tap connection is dripping under mains pressure, the water inlet valve isn’t closing fully, or the drain hose is letting water flow back into the machine. Turn the taps off behind the machine first. If the leak stops, the problem is on the supply side.
A leak during a wash cycle and a leak while the machine sits idle are two different problems. When the machine is off, the motor, pump and door aren’t working, so most of the parts people blame (overloading, too much detergent, the spin cycle) can be ruled out. What’s left is anything that stays full of water or under pressure between washes.
This guide covers the eight causes our technicians find most often, the checks you can safely do yourself, and when it’s time to book a repair.
Is water under the machine, or inside the drum?
Where you find the water tells you where to look. Use this table before you start pulling the machine out.
| What you see | Most likely cause | Check first |
|---|---|---|
| Puddle under or behind the machine | Fill hose, tap connection or hose washer dripping | Back of the machine, both ends of each fill hose |
| Water slowly rising inside the drum | Water inlet valve not sealing | Turn taps off overnight and see if it stops |
| Dirty or grey water inside the drum | Drain hose back-flow or siphoning | Height and position of the drain hose |
| Small puddle at the front, bottom corner | Pump filter cap loose or seal worn (front loaders) | Filter access panel at the front |
| Water in the door rubber or detergent drawer | Residual water from the last wash | Door seal folds and drawer housing |
8 reasons your washing machine leaks when it isn’t running
1. A fill hose or tap connection is dripping
This is the most common cause we see. Most households leave the taps behind the washing machine turned on permanently, which means the fill hoses stay under mains pressure 24 hours a day. A worn rubber washer, a hairline crack or a loose fitting at either end can drip slowly enough that you only notice a puddle the next morning.
Pull the machine out and run a dry tissue around both ends of each hose. Look for rust staining, bulging or cracking on the hose itself. Replacement hoses and washers are cheap, and a braided stainless steel hose is a worthwhile upgrade.
2. The water inlet valve isn’t closing fully
The inlet valve is an electric solenoid that opens to let water in and closes when the machine reaches the right level. Mineral scale, grit from the water supply or a worn diaphragm can stop it sealing completely. Water then trickles into the drum while the machine is off, and in a bad case it fills high enough to escape through the door seal or the drain.
The test is simple. Drain the machine, turn the taps off overnight and check the drum in the morning. If it stays dry with the taps off but fills with them on, the valve is the problem. Replacing an inlet valve involves mains water and electrical connections, so we recommend leaving this one to a technician.
3. The drain hose is siphoning or letting water flow back in
If the drain hose sits too low, is pushed too far into the standpipe, or seals airtight in the pipe, water can siphon out of the machine or flow back into it from the drain. This often shows up as dirty water sitting in the drum, or a machine that seems to drain and refill on its own. Manufacturers such as GE Appliances set a minimum drain height and a maximum insertion depth for exactly this reason.
Check that the drain hose has a high loop secured near the top of the machine and that the end sits loosely in the standpipe or tub with an air gap. If your laundry sink is blocked and filling up, it can also push water back down the hose.
4. The pump filter cap or pump seal is seeping (front loaders)
Front loaders keep a small amount of water in the sump, pump and filter between washes. If the filter cap behind the small front panel wasn’t screwed in fully after cleaning, or its rubber seal is worn, that water seeps out slowly. You’ll usually see a small puddle at the front bottom corner.
Open the panel, put a towel down, and check the cap is seated straight and tight. A cracked pump housing is a repair job, not a DIY one.
From our job logs: A Bosch washer dryer combo in Melbourne and an LG combo washer dryer in Brisbane both came to us with failed drain pumps, one showing an E18 error and the other clicking and not draining. Replacing the pump fixed both. A small puddle at the front is often the early warning, so it’s worth acting on before the pump stops altogether.
5. A cracked internal hose is holding residual water
Inside the machine, rubber hoses connect the tub to the pump and the dispenser to the tub. They age, harden and split, usually at a bend or a clamp. Water left in these hoses after a wash can drip out for hours afterwards, which makes it look like the machine is leaking while it’s off.
This needs the cabinet opened to find, so it’s a job for a technician.
From our job logs: On a Bosch washing machine in Sydney, our technician found a blockage inside the hose between the drum and the pump. Water held in a blocked hose puts strain on the rubber and clamps, which is where splits start. Clearing it fixed the fault with no parts needed.
6. The door seal is holding water (front loaders)
The rubber door seal on a front loader has deep folds that collect water, lint, coins and hairpins. When you open the door after a wash, that trapped water can run down the front of the machine. A torn or perished seal will also let water out at the bottom of the door.
Wipe the seal dry after each wash and leave the door ajar. If you find a tear, the seal needs replacing.
7. Water left in the detergent drawer
Detergent and softener residue builds up in the drawer and its housing, blocking the channels that carry water into the drum. Water that should drain away sits in the drawer and slowly drips down the front or inside the cabinet.
Remove the drawer, soak it in warm water, and clear the housing with an old toothbrush. Use the detergent amount and type your manufacturer recommends, especially HE detergent in front loaders.
From our job logs: An LG washing machine in Sydney came in with an LE error and water that wouldn’t clear. Along with cleaning the pump and checking the suspension legs, our technician cleared a clogged dispenser, a step that’s easy to overlook when you’re only looking for the obvious fault.
8. Condensation or a leak from somewhere else
Sometimes the machine isn’t the source at all. A cold water pipe sweating in a humid laundry, a leaking laundry tub trap or a dripping tap above the machine can all leave water underneath it. Dry the floor completely, put paper towel down around the machine, and see where it gets wet first.
If the machine stays dry but your water bill has jumped, try the water meter leak test from Sydney Water: turn off every tap and water-using appliance, note the meter reading, and check it again an hour later. If the numbers have moved, the leak is in your plumbing rather than the washing machine, and that’s a job for a licensed plumber.
What to do right now
- Turn off both taps behind the washing machine. Samsung recommends this whenever the machine isn’t in use.
- Switch the machine off at the wall before touching anything near water.
- Dry the floor and lay paper towel around the base so you can see where the water appears.
- Check both ends of the fill hoses, the drain hose position and the filter cap.
- Leave the taps off overnight. If the leak stops, the cause is on the supply side (hoses or inlet valve).
- If water keeps appearing with the taps off, or it’s coming from inside the cabinet, book a technician.
Don’t open the cabinet or remove panels yourself. Water and mains power sit close together inside a washing machine, and a DIY repair can turn a single worn part into a bigger fault.
When to call a technician
Book a repair if the inlet valve, pump, internal hoses or door seal is the likely cause, if the leak keeps coming back after you’ve tightened the hoses, or if you can see water inside the cabinet. A slow leak left for weeks can damage flooring, rot cabinetry and corrode the machine’s base and electrical connectors.
When one of our technicians attends, they start with a full diagnosis to find the actual source before replacing anything. Our vans carry the high-turnover washing machine parts such as inlet valves, drain pumps and hoses, so many leaks are fixed on the first visit. If a specific part has to be ordered, we come back to fit it without charging another call-out fee.
Is a leaking washing machine worth repairing?
In most cases, yes. In more than 15 years of washing machine repairs, we’ve found that most machines are worth fixing, and leaks are among the most repairable faults. Hoses, washers, inlet valves, pumps and door seals are all replaceable parts, and fitting one usually costs far less than a new machine plus installation.
Replacement is worth considering when the tub itself is cracked, when the bearings and seals have failed together on an older machine, or when parts are no longer available. Even then, we look for compatible alternatives first, and in some cases we can fabricate small metal or plastic components. If a repair genuinely isn’t worth it, your technician will tell you straight and explain why.
If you do need a new machine, we can take care of that too: supplying a new or reconditioned unit, installing it and removing the old one. One company, start to finish.
Every repair is backed by a 3-month labour warranty and a 12-month warranty on parts.
Frequently asked questions
Why is there water under my washing machine when it hasn’t been used?
The most common cause is a slow drip from a fill hose or tap connection, because the hoses stay under mains pressure whenever the taps are left on. Check both ends of each hose for drips, rust staining or a perished washer. If the hoses are dry, check the front filter cap and the drain hose. If you can’t find the source, our technicians will trace it and give you a clear quote before any work begins.
Why is my washing machine filling with water when it’s turned off?
Water in the drum while the machine is off usually means the inlet valve isn’t sealing, or the drain hose is letting water flow back in. Turn the taps off overnight: if the drum stays dry, it’s the inlet valve. Inlet valves are one of the parts our technicians carry in their vans, so this is often fixed in a single visit.
Should I turn off the taps after using my washing machine?
Yes, it’s a good habit. With the taps off, the hoses and inlet valve aren’t under pressure while you’re out or asleep, so a failing hose can’t flood the laundry. Manufacturers including Samsung recommend it, and it costs nothing.
How often should washing machine hoses be replaced?
We recommend checking fill hoses every year and replacing them every 5 years, or straight away if you see bulging, cracking or rust at the fittings. Rubber hoses perish faster in hot laundries. A braided stainless steel hose lasts longer and is less likely to burst.
Is a leaking washing machine dangerous?
It can be. Water near the power point or inside the cabinet is an electrical risk, and a wet floor is a slip hazard. Switch the machine off at the wall, turn the taps off and don’t use it until the source is found. Our licensed technicians can make it safe and repair it, with same-day service available subject to availability.
Is it worth repairing a leaking washing machine?
Usually, yes. Most of the machines our technicians attend are repaired rather than replaced, and the parts behind most leaks (hoses, valves, pumps, seals) are replaceable. Every repair comes with a 3-month labour and 12-month parts warranty. If repair isn’t the right call, we’ll tell you why and can supply and install a replacement.
How much does it cost to fix a leaking washing machine?
The cost depends on the brand, model and which part has failed. A loose hose or blocked filter is a quick fix, while an inlet valve or pump replacement takes more time and parts. Your technician diagnoses the fault first and gives you a clear quote before any repair goes ahead. If a part needs to be ordered, there’s no extra call-out fee when we return to fit it.
Book a washing machine repair
If your washing machine is leaking and you can’t find the cause, call our Retail Support Team in your city. Same-day service is available, subject to availability.
- Washing Machine Repairs Melbourne: (03) 9034 6162
- Washing Machine Repairs Sydney: (02) 6190 1313
- Washing Machine Repairs Brisbane: (07) 3088 9002
- Washing Machine Repairs Perth: (08) 9551 7923
- Washing Machine Repairs Adelaide: (08) 6118 7045
Running a laundromat, hotel or other business? Speak to our business team: 1300 834 633.
